STC GENERATOR
Part 2- Detailing...
Now for the details.  Start with those pipe halves.  Sand the back smooth on your sanding pad and superglue them onto the sides of your box, one on either side.  You'll want to glue them towards the back of the box, under the last angled punch-out.   Be sure the bottom of the pipe lines up with the bottom edge of the box, and that the riveted end of the pipe is upward. 
 
 

Next, grab the large tank wheels and glue them to the tops of the pipes.  They should nestle in nicely, and cover up the gap between the top of the pipe and the angled portion of the box.
 
 
 
 
 

Now for the power coil blocks.  You should find that you can friction fit the back of a small tank wheel into the space between four studs on the Lego block.  Add some glue to the inside edges of the studs, and cram two tank wheels onto the block as shown.  Make four of these blocks.
 
 
 
 
 

Add the blocks to the box by wedging them into the middle angled areas.  Test fit them first before gluing.  Try to line up the bottom edge of the block with the corner of the box below the angled slot.  Angle isn't critical, as long as they all match it should look fine.

Next, saw the oil drum half - in half!  Cut parallel to the ends, so you end up with a quarter of a barrel.  Glue these to the remaining angled punch-out areas on either side of the box, with the cut end facing toward the middle.  You can see one installed in the upper right corner of the second pic here.

Now get the small 1x2 Lego blocks and add some glue to the studs.  Glue them into the slots on the side of the box, studs facing in, down near the bottom of the slots as shown.
 

Now get your two Manufactorum railings and glue the end posts on as shown.
 

Glue the assembled railings onto the back of the small Legos. Be sure to center the railings so they don't overlap the Lego blocks too much at either end.   This should form a nice panel that stands off from the box.
 


Disassemble your clothespin by twisting it apart.  Remove the spring.  
 
 

Using a razor saw, cut the clothespin tip off, using the spring groove as a guide. 
 
 
 
 

Sand the back of the clothespin tip on your sanding pad and glue it onto the box, below the oil drum.  Repeat for the other side.
 
 
 

To ensure your generator has plenty of power, make another pair of power coil blocks by gluing small tank wheels to the 2x4 Lego bricks.  Add one of these blocks to either side- glue them to the box below the angled blocks, resting on top of the manufactorum railings as shown.

Now for the fiddly details. 

To make a ventilator, grab the 2x3 Lego brick, and using your nippy cutters, remove any plastic from the inside of the bottom of the brick, leaving a nice empty box shape.  

Use a razor saw to saw down the sides of a damaged Manufactorum railing piece until it fits snugly inside the brick.  Glue in place. 
 
 
 

Now apply glue to the studs of the ventilator and glue it to the box, below one of the cut down clothespins.
 
 

Next, assemble the pipe elbow and saw off the protruding ridge from one end.  Glue this flat end to the other side of the box, below the other clothespin.  Be sure the bottom of the pipe is level with the bottom of the box- to do this, place the generator on a flat surface, apply glue to the cut end of the pipe, and rest the other end on the table and slide it up to the generator until it is attached.
 
 

Next, glue the light onto the front of the box, inside the arch of the right buttress.
 

Finally, glue the half-round cover piece to the back of the generator, inside the window arch.  Now's a good time to add on any of the details you sawed off the back of the panels, if you like.

Here's a shot of the completed Generator.  Remember that you can arrange your details however you like- but hopefully the steps above have given you some good ideas for different types of detail to add!
The final Step: Painting!

Copyright 2006 Sean Patten

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