I prime most of my terrain with flat black primer. But take note!
You'll want to COVER UP the reel hubs before priming, so they can still
let that cool flickering light out after you're done painting! I
got all fancy and made custom covers out of 1" Pipe Couplers cut down to
size with cardboard glued over one end. Normal human beings will
probably be fine with some carefully applied masking tape.
Using a dark brown, drybrush all the skulls and mechanical areas (anything
with detail, really).
This includes all the details on the back too.
Next, using a blue-grey, drybrush all the other flat areas, avoiding
the area around the hubs / lights...
...because these get painted with a dark red for contrast.
Now use a light brown to drybrush all the skulls on the shrine, wherever
they appear.
Next, mix up a rust wash and apply it to any crevices and recessed detail
you like. You can also add some rust wash to the hub lights- as long
as it isn't too thick, it shouldn't block out the light. I also like
to run streaks of rust wash down from selected rivets.
Once the rust wash is dry, mix up a bronze color (brass and steel) and
drybrush all the mechanical bits- lamp posts, pipes, rivets, etc.
Drybrush some gold or brass color onto the ridges surrounding the skull
details.
Finally, drybrush the skulls white. And you're done!
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Copyright 2009 Sean Patten