STC EMBER SHRINE
Part 3- Painting
 
I prime most of my terrain with flat black primer.  But take note!  You'll want to COVER UP the reel hubs before priming, so they can still let that cool flickering light out after you're done painting!  I got all fancy and made custom covers out of 1" Pipe Couplers cut down to size with cardboard glued over one end.  Normal human beings will probably be fine with some carefully applied masking tape.  
 

Using a dark brown, drybrush all the skulls and mechanical areas (anything with detail, really).
 
 
 
 
 

This includes all the details on the back too.
 
 
 
 

Next, using a blue-grey, drybrush all the other flat areas, avoiding the area around the hubs / lights...
 
 
 
 

...because these get painted with a dark red for contrast.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Now use a light brown to drybrush all the skulls on the shrine, wherever they appear.
 
 
 

Next, mix up a rust wash and apply it to any crevices and recessed detail you like.  You can also add some rust wash to the hub lights- as long as it isn't too thick, it shouldn't block out the light.  I also like to run streaks of rust wash down from selected rivets.
 
 
 

Once the rust wash is dry, mix up a bronze color (brass and steel) and drybrush all the mechanical bits- lamp posts, pipes, rivets, etc.
 
 
 
 

Drybrush some gold or brass color onto the ridges surrounding the skull details.
 
 
 
 
 

Finally, drybrush the skulls white.  And you're done!
 
 
 
 

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Copyright 2009 Sean Patten

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